Last Updated on 05/08/2025 by caroline mcauley
Double Trouble – The Return of the Double Breasted Suit
Once a staple of classic menswear, the double-breasted suit is making a strong comeback.
The double-breasted suit is a classic that consistently divides opinions in men’s formal attire. Despite its cyclical nature of fashion trends, it remains a timeless choice, cherished by a dedicated following who appreciate its enduring elegance.
They’re at their peak right now, with stars like David Beckham and Pierce Brosnan appearing in them. Fashion is all about trends, so they might just stay popular as a formal option. So, let’s start at the beginning – what is a double-breasted suit?
Getting Started
What is a double-breasted suit jacket?
A double-breasted jacket is like a blazer with two rows of buttons on the front. The extra row was just for looks, not to fasten anything. Back in the day, when people wore cloaks, the buttons would always overlap and run off-centre. So, they added the second row to make things look even. But there’s usually a hidden anchor button inside, just to keep everything in place.
Double-breasted jackets have a smaller gap between the lapels compared to single-breasted suits. Single-breasted suits can be fastened as high as the tailor wants, but double-breasted suits usually have closer lapels. Also, double-breasted suits often have a peak lapel instead of a notched one.
Casual Events – Laid Back
When can I wear a double-breasted suit?
They are way more versatile than you think! There’s no strict rule, but it would be nice if there was. Instead of just wearing a single-breasted suit for work or a fancy event, you could go for a double-breasted one. If you already have a bunch of single-breasted suits, a double-breasted one would be a great way to stand out and make a statement. They’re popular right now, so you’ll turn heads when you wear one. There are a few things to keep in mind when choosing a double-breasted suit, though.
Looking Sharp
Wearing to work?
Sure, you can! But it depends on the dress code at your workplace. Double-breasted suits are super stylish and add a touch of dandyism. If suits are the norm at your office, you’ll be fine in a double-breasted suit. Just remember to always wear cufflinks when wearing a double-breasted suit to the office.
If most people at your office wear smart casual, you might feel a bit overdressed if you wear a double-breasted suit. In that case, you can wear a double-breasted sports jacket instead. Pair it with smart chinos or dark denim, and you’ll be all set!
Different Fabrics
Fabric is a key factor in shaping someone’s style. For instance, heavier fabrics like wool and wool blends are usually worn for formal occasions. But if you’re attending a summer wedding or an event during the warmer months, lighter fabrics like linen or cotton are more popular because they’re breathable and soft. On the other hand, fabrics like tweed suits can add a more layered look that keeps you warm in colder seasons.
We love Minimalism
If you’ve got a gorgeous double-breasted suit, you can totally rock a simple T-shirt or some light knitwear underneath it. It totally takes away any pretences of formality, and since you’re probably buttoned up, you’re not showing too much of your undergarments anyway. Or, just go tieless with a shirt and you’re still going to look the part.
For dates/casual events?
Sure thing! You can go for sportier fabrics like cashmere, textured wool, linens, and cottons. If you want a plain colour, choose a fabric with texture or a checked pattern to give it a casual vibe. Mix the jacket with more casual pieces. Pair your double-breasted blazer with dark, tailored-cut jeans (no ripped jeans) or chinos and a plain-coloured t-shirt, open-collared shirt, or a roll neck for cooler weather.
Can I wear a double breasted suit for a wedding as a groom or guest?
Yes, you can wear it as a groom or guest. However make sure it is not a pinstriped one. Save the pinstripes for business. And no metal buttons or patch pockets please. Those are for more casual settings. Cufflinks are an absolute must!
Can I wear a waistcoat under a double-breasted jacket?
Double breasted jacket carries an extra layer at the front. Do not add an extra layer with a waistcoat. Save the waistcoat for a single-breasted jacket.
How do I wear a double-breasted suit?
You should keep your lapels open. Some designers have tried to make their jackets look different by having notched lapels, but that’s a bad idea. Peak lapels are more important on a double-breasted jacket than they are on a single-breasted one. The two rows of buttons on a double-breasted jacket draw attention to your midsection, so peak lapels help balance that by making your chest look wider and taller.
Leave the bottom button undone
Here’s a little tip about double-breasted suits that shows you’re a pro: always leave the bottom button undone. It restricts movement and spoils the line. Whether you’re sitting, standing, or walking, in any weather, this rule applies. The bottom button is just as fancy as the dummy buttons on the other side. We don’t know why, but it’s just a thing.
Accessories for a Double-Breasted Suit
Want to take your outfit to the next level? A double-breasted suit is a statement piece that can work with any accessories you choose. If you’re looking for must-have accessories, a pocket square is a great choice. It adds a pop of colour and texture without overwhelming the jacket. You can even go for a classic silk or a patterned pocket square to enhance your jacket’s sharp lines.
If you need advice on ties, keep it simple and sophisticated. Depending on the colour and pattern of your suit, a slim tie in a solid colour will keep the attention on the sleek jacket while adding an extra layer of style. Maybe go a step further and skip the tie altogether and leave the shirt collar open. If you’re adding details with your accessories, an understated pair of cufflinks will make sure your outfit is perfect for any event.
Don’t wear a belt. It will make the jacket bunch up and ruin the clean drape.
